Jason
Silver Member
Is snapping forks a regular occurance for you? Do you throw out those forks with a tear in your eye? Do you hate paying such a big amount for a new fork, only dreading the next snap? WELL HOLY P!SS I'LL SHOW YOU SOMETHING COOL OK
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1: This method only works for forks snapped in the usual place, below the steertube. If you've snapped your forks elsewhere, WTF.
2: The piece of fork that snapped (the threaded part) does NOT need to come out of the steertube. You'll need it later.
3: Find a piece of STEEL that fits EXACTLY inside the fork. None of this 'aluminium for less weight' bullsh!t, it'll just snap again, making your fork completely useless. You'll barely notice the weight of the one piece of steel anyway, wuss.
4: Drill a 10mm or so hole straight through your fork, so it has 2 holes on either side about halfway between the thread and the base. You can have 4 holes on opposite sides of the tube for extra hold on the reinforcement, but thats only if you're nuts enough. This step is explained in the following diagram:
5: Slide in your steel reinforcement, and cut it so it fits far enough to pass your drill holes, as well as being long enough stick out the top a little bit longer than the original fork.
6: Now for the magical part! Weld the steel reinforcement to the edges of the drill holes in your fork, a nice big weld that fills up the drill hole and really grabs on to the steel. If you're not a precise welder then find someone who is, the last thing you want is a bodge weld or a ruddy big hole in your fork.
7: Grind down the weld to go smoothly with the fork tube, as if it had no weld at all. You want your job to look nice and sexy don't you? This step also lets your fork to actually fit inside your headset.
8: THERE IS NO STEP 8, YOU'RE DONE! Here's one I've prepared earlier (as in a few months ago):
The tape is for a snug fit. Simply slide on your steertube/bars and clamp them up nice and tight.
Mullet and I have done this procedure several times, the fork in the scooter I regularly ride hasn't changed at all, I've never thought about anything bad happening.
C+C appreciated.
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1: This method only works for forks snapped in the usual place, below the steertube. If you've snapped your forks elsewhere, WTF.
2: The piece of fork that snapped (the threaded part) does NOT need to come out of the steertube. You'll need it later.
3: Find a piece of STEEL that fits EXACTLY inside the fork. None of this 'aluminium for less weight' bullsh!t, it'll just snap again, making your fork completely useless. You'll barely notice the weight of the one piece of steel anyway, wuss.
4: Drill a 10mm or so hole straight through your fork, so it has 2 holes on either side about halfway between the thread and the base. You can have 4 holes on opposite sides of the tube for extra hold on the reinforcement, but thats only if you're nuts enough. This step is explained in the following diagram:
5: Slide in your steel reinforcement, and cut it so it fits far enough to pass your drill holes, as well as being long enough stick out the top a little bit longer than the original fork.
6: Now for the magical part! Weld the steel reinforcement to the edges of the drill holes in your fork, a nice big weld that fills up the drill hole and really grabs on to the steel. If you're not a precise welder then find someone who is, the last thing you want is a bodge weld or a ruddy big hole in your fork.
7: Grind down the weld to go smoothly with the fork tube, as if it had no weld at all. You want your job to look nice and sexy don't you? This step also lets your fork to actually fit inside your headset.
8: THERE IS NO STEP 8, YOU'RE DONE! Here's one I've prepared earlier (as in a few months ago):
The tape is for a snug fit. Simply slide on your steertube/bars and clamp them up nice and tight.
Mullet and I have done this procedure several times, the fork in the scooter I regularly ride hasn't changed at all, I've never thought about anything bad happening.
C+C appreciated.
