Priorities on a stock scooter

microdownunder

Bronze member
I work for micro scooters and we mostly make recreational scooters at the moment not designed with stunts in mind. The exception being the Bullet Street Pro which is our entry level stunt model. http://www.microscooters.com.au/kids-scooters/bullet-street-pro-scooter

I'm trying to convince head office to work on designing some more high end pre-made trick scooters to add to our range and was wondering what your top priorities are when you're looking at new scooters. I’m not a stunt rider myself but I've had a look at the forums and the people here seem to know what they're talking about.

Are there any features that you would particularly like to see?
Anything to avoid?

Would appreciate any feedback
 

TheObserver

Steel Member
semi Boxxy decks... sorta mid weight, not too light.. Not a deck thats too long like a v2i, but not as short as a rup. Standard size Aluminum bars. stuff like that. Nice cheap FAST metal cores
 

Rob.

Admin
Staff member
Threadless forks
HIC compression
Threadless headset
oversized bars 17w x 22h bars (for personal adjustment)
110mm metalcores like the old XT ones.. I liked them. But without the bearing sleeve.
a 4 inch wide deck (although everyone will disagree because they like riding freaking skateboard sized decks), 20" long, 81.5 HTA. Ignore anyone who says 83. Its too awkward.
Footjam friendly headtube design
Flex fender braking system
Make it a little front heavy, back heaviness makes tailwhips weird.

Things to avoid:
Threaded ANYTHING
Narrow bars
100mm wheels
0 offset forks
Bolted headtube assembly
bad braking system
Excess weight
Back weight.
 

paulleparik

Steel Member
Threadless
hic
18-20 wide bars with backsweep/ regular tees
4 inch to 4.5 deck
flexy break
flat bottom deck for grinds.
81.5 to 82.5 headtube angle.
box shape headtube. no mgp shape bs
STRONG decks with good welds. no district v1 or v2 bs either
good grips not like ultrapro grips
 

issac p

Silver Member
guys i dont think he wants your opinion on how you would ant your setup. i think he's looking for like standard stuff.
deck-4.3 wide and 20 long, flat sides/wide bottom, 82.5 hta
bars-T bars, 18 wide by 21 high
forks-threadless aluminum
grips- make them like odi's
compression-although i would love a complete with baby scs, hic for a complete is probably your best bet
wheels-110mm fullcore
brake-flex fender like a tsi
and yeah listen to what rob said for stuff to avoid
hope this helps!
 

alexallupinthis

Steel Member
bro it would nice to see
1) good metal cores, nothing that will ovalize or chunk too fast, and make nice and fast
2) aluminum forks, non of that flimsy razor pro shitt like real aluminum forks
3) a one piece deck, and none of that circle headtube stuff, looks to stock, and a 81 hta
4) flex style break or a really beefy and dialed spring with a strong brake bolt
5) Hic or scs, no ics cause its bullshitt, make it pretty good
6) one piece bars, pretty strong made out of chromoly steel, be creative with the shape
7) threadless sealed headset that spins smooth and fast
8) make it so its DIALED, dont make it sound like a rusty 1985 pickup with the exhaust falling off, more like a pumped basket ball.

over all you want it to look as aftermarket as possible, so people will buy it whole but more importantly would be excited to part it cause they think it cool, either way its a win win, so just surf the web and this site and stay updated so you scooter doesn't look like you just pulled a bros scoot from 2005, so that means no 3 piece bars, i know their tempting but just stay away from them, just keep a level head and the rider in mind and it should be golden. im stoked to see what you guys come up with :)
 

RiccardoM

Steel Member
I love the bullet it looked brilliant I was gonna get it at one point.
1. Full metal cores
2. Alu forks
3. Deck make two separate models with different headtube angles. Boxed with a wide bottom.
4. Flexy brake or Something like a fakey.
5. Make it HIC on a stock SCS would be too expensive.
6. Really nice T bars with no dodgey tapering.

The simple but strong and light design is much better than a fancy load of carp that breaks after two minutes.
 

microdownunder

Bronze member
Thanks for your input guys.

When you talk about weight what do you consider light. Our current model is 3.2kg is this too much, not enough?

Got the notes about threadless forks, metal core wheels, flexy brake, alu forks etc.

@alexallupinthis what do you mean by DIALED?
 

Joe Riley

The Gypsy
Staff member
Alright, this would pretty much be a standard good scooter in my opinion.

Deck: 82.5 headtube angle, 20" length, 4.25" wide, flex brake system, flat sides similar to the District V2i or the Addict Street Deck. Non-folding. The headtube should go THROUGH the deck and be welded on the top of the deck AND the bottom. This makes the deck a lot more sturdy. Square headtube. 3-5 degrees of concave.
Bars: Oversized T-bars (or maybe even Y-bars) that use HIC compression, 22"x18"
Forks: Thinner version of Phoenix Phorx, like the old French iD forks.
Wheels: 88a PU solid metal core wheels that come with stock Abec 7 bearings.
Grips : Soft and durable rubber grips, with a similar design to ODI Longnecks
Headset: integrated, preferable. Doesn't matter too much since a lot of decks are still standard. SMOOTH. Smoothness is more important than speed.

Strength is more important than weight, but you want to keep it as light as you can while still maintaining a lot of strength. ESPECIALLY with the deck, where most break right where the headtube connects to the deck.
 

9cdmc

Member
Alright, this would pretty much be a standard good scooter in my opinion.

Deck: 82.5 headtube angle, 20" length, 4.25" wide, flex brake system, flat sides similar to the District V2i or the Addict Street Deck. Non-folding. The headtube should go THROUGH the deck and be welded on the top of the deck AND the bottom. This makes the deck a lot more sturdy. Square headtube. 3-5 degrees of concave.
Bars: Oversized T-bars (or maybe even Y-bars) that use HIC compression, 22"x18"
Forks: Thinner version of Phoenix Phorx, like the old French iD forks.
Wheels: 88a PU solid metal core wheels that come with stock Abec 7 bearings.
Grips : Soft and durable rubber grips, with a similar design to ODI Longnecks
Headset: integrated, preferable. Doesn't matter too much since a lot of decks are still standard. SMOOTH. Smoothness is more important than speed.

Strength is more important than weight, but you want to keep it as light as you can while still maintaining a lot of strength. ESPECIALLY with the deck, where most break right where the headtube connects to the deck.
Yes yes yes yes yes, this would be amazing, do exactly what this guy said
 

Victor C.

Member
Thanks for your input guys.

When you talk about weight what do you consider light. Our current model is 3.2kg is this too much, not enough?

Got the notes about threadless forks, metal core wheels, flexy brake, alu forks etc.

@alexallupinthis what do you mean by DIALED?

For me, my scooter is really light. It's 6 or 7 pounds (so about 3 kg). The average rider likes lighter though, but there are still people who like 10 pound setups.

Dialed is like, when you drop it, it doesnt rattle and make a ton of noise (from it being loose). It should all be tight, and sound like a basketball sort of...

T bars, gusseted. 18 - 20 wide.
Grips, just make them comfy, like ODI grips.
I would love to see an SCS, but HIC is probably the way to go.
Integrated headset. Easy installation.
Deck: One Piece. Boxy like a district, 4.5 wide. 4 deg. concave. 82 degree headtube angle. Integrated. Make the headtube go through the deck, like Joe said above. Don't make the drop-outs (the spot at the back, close to the wheel) too thin. Anodized.
Metal core 110mm wheels. NOT 100mm!!!
Aluminum fork, with very thick walls. Or steel, with thinner walls.
And a flexfender brake system.
GOOD griptape.
 

issac p

Silver Member
For me, my scooter is really light. It's 6 or 7 pounds (so about 3 kg). The average rider likes lighter though, but there are still people who like 10 pound setups.

That's not true. The average scooter weighs about 8 or 9 pounds. And people are pretty happy with that weight.
And just fyi a lucky complete weighs 12lbs, a mgp nitro weighs about 10lbs, and a complete district weighs a little over 5lbs.
 

alfie wisker

Steel Member
20x22 bars hic
triple clamp
threadless forks
threadless headset
normal size headtube (not like the mgp wennies)
82* degree headtube
20 inch long deck 4.5 wide and with flat sides for grinding
110mm wheels like the 4 year old micro cores but just 110mm
flexy brake
good grip tape (not like blunts)

DONT!!!!!
aluminum bars
small bars
100mm wheels
blotted foldy
19 inch deck
 

Victor C.

Member
That's not true. The average scooter weighs about 8 or 9 pounds. And people are pretty happy with that weight.
And just fyi a lucky complete weighs 12lbs, a mgp nitro weighs about 10lbs, and a complete district weighs a little over 5lbs.

Yeah i actually just weighed mine, its like 7.8 pounds. I used to have a nitro, so mine seems super light.
 

TomGeorge

Steel Member
Go threadless!!!!!
Very few companies make a stock scooter with threadless forks on but it is so much smoother and easier to dial. Use either HIC or try to come up with a cheap SCS but do jot go ANYWHERE NEAR ICS!!!!!!!
 
idk, I just weighed my scooter and it is 5.5 pounds, I love its weight, I think it is perfect. like 5-6 pound area seem amazing to me.
 
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