Things you'll need
--Drill
--Saw/something to cut with
--Money.
--5/16ths drill bit
--hands are useful too.
--Razor axles, or bolts, i suggest axles because they're hand-friendly.
--a punch
(like this)
useful, believe me.
Alright so depending on if you're riding threaded/SCS or (like a bawse) riding HIC, you'll be buying different tubings.
I'll start with the HIC, which is what I'm running right now:
*note, with no slit, you can run these in an SCS.
But scroll down for the better SCS set up.
Tubing:
downtube
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=15340&step=4&showunits=inches&id=250&top_cat=0
Buy it in 24". That's the best amount, or if you need it higher, buy longer.
NOTE!
The buff stem its self raises your bars about an inch, so if you want 22" high buffs, cut the downtube to ~21 inches long.
I'd just order the 24" and do the measuring yourself.
Crossbar:
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=9567&step=4&showunits=inches&id=250&top_cat=0
Any of the .875" OD walls will do, but this one is pretty tough to bend, so I'd recommend this. you can get it custom cut to whatever width you want, or buy a general width and cut it yourself, it doesn't matter.
You can buy a thick aluminum crossbar as well, but barends are a bitch to put in them (or cover the ends) and its more prone to bending. Don't be a weight weenie.
ADA stem:
http://www.adaracing.com/scooter/steering-stem-boxer/bxss
Alright, time to drill and cut some more. Put the ADA stem over one end of the 1.375 tubing, it should fit snugly. Use the punch and a hammer to make a little dent in the tubing where the holes are. Drill through both holes with the 5/16ths bit. install axles with allen keys. simple enough.
once the stem is properly tightened down, grab a saw and cut roughly a 2.25" slit (smaller slit = more reliable imo) on the other side of the tubing (duh.). Take a smaller drill bit (really small, but wider than the saw cut.) and drill a hole at the top of the slit. it helps keep the slit from cracking (I think?)
done. install your HIC and you're good to go. Or keep it slitless and run an SCS.
For a lighter SCS/threaded set up, buy this downtube instead (not HIC compatible!)
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=4358&step=4&showunits=inches&id=71&top_cat=60
There's more expensive alloys, but... if you want to pay 30/foot of tubing, be my guest.
So buffs will cost you around:
~15 for crossbar
~18 for downtube
~40 for ADA stem
~30 for shipping everything (estimate***)
$103
HOWEVER. If your downtube bends, or snaps. or your bars bend down, you only replace those tubes! So instead of churning out another 80 bucks for a new set of bars, you spend ~25 bucks for a new tube!
There you go.
--Drill
--Saw/something to cut with
--Money.
--5/16ths drill bit
--hands are useful too.
--Razor axles, or bolts, i suggest axles because they're hand-friendly.
--a punch
(like this)
useful, believe me.
Alright so depending on if you're riding threaded/SCS or (like a bawse) riding HIC, you'll be buying different tubings.
I'll start with the HIC, which is what I'm running right now:
*note, with no slit, you can run these in an SCS.
But scroll down for the better SCS set up.
Tubing:
downtube
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=15340&step=4&showunits=inches&id=250&top_cat=0
Buy it in 24". That's the best amount, or if you need it higher, buy longer.
NOTE!
The buff stem its self raises your bars about an inch, so if you want 22" high buffs, cut the downtube to ~21 inches long.
I'd just order the 24" and do the measuring yourself.
Crossbar:
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=9567&step=4&showunits=inches&id=250&top_cat=0
Any of the .875" OD walls will do, but this one is pretty tough to bend, so I'd recommend this. you can get it custom cut to whatever width you want, or buy a general width and cut it yourself, it doesn't matter.
You can buy a thick aluminum crossbar as well, but barends are a bitch to put in them (or cover the ends) and its more prone to bending. Don't be a weight weenie.
ADA stem:
http://www.adaracing.com/scooter/steering-stem-boxer/bxss
Alright, time to drill and cut some more. Put the ADA stem over one end of the 1.375 tubing, it should fit snugly. Use the punch and a hammer to make a little dent in the tubing where the holes are. Drill through both holes with the 5/16ths bit. install axles with allen keys. simple enough.
once the stem is properly tightened down, grab a saw and cut roughly a 2.25" slit (smaller slit = more reliable imo) on the other side of the tubing (duh.). Take a smaller drill bit (really small, but wider than the saw cut.) and drill a hole at the top of the slit. it helps keep the slit from cracking (I think?)
done. install your HIC and you're good to go. Or keep it slitless and run an SCS.
For a lighter SCS/threaded set up, buy this downtube instead (not HIC compatible!)
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=4358&step=4&showunits=inches&id=71&top_cat=60
There's more expensive alloys, but... if you want to pay 30/foot of tubing, be my guest.
So buffs will cost you around:
~15 for crossbar
~18 for downtube
~40 for ADA stem
~30 for shipping everything (estimate***)
$103
HOWEVER. If your downtube bends, or snaps. or your bars bend down, you only replace those tubes! So instead of churning out another 80 bucks for a new set of bars, you spend ~25 bucks for a new tube!
There you go.
