Ask Questions Here

E

Eric Magray

Steel Member
when i get cracks i just get some extra foldy bolts, like the kind that bolt it underneath the deck, and drill some extra holes in there then tap it out and screw the extra bolts in. that way instead of there being only 4 bolts, theres like 6 or 8.

ill try and take some pics tonight to give you an idea
 
Kyle

Kyle

Troll Moderator
Staff member
my friend was wondering
how long does it take to get paid on team fuzion?
 
L

lol

Member
ill post on the noobs thread... k so you can boneless in scootering right? or is that a cheap bunny hop?
 
H

Hopesta

Member
Hey I'm a noob. I was just wondering.

1. How can you tell the difference between a sealed and an unsealed headset

2. What is a vapour
 
E

Eric Magray

Steel Member
ENERGY TURTLE said:
I understand. Can you tell me what sizes I need to drill and the tap size/thread. Post the pics up anyway though.
Click to expand...
i used a 1/4" drill bit and an M6 tap. and yea ill try and get them pics today.
 
H

Hopesta

Member
Will said:
Just got the scooter, it was HORRIBLE!
Parts are missing and scratches on the new scooter, and there is even a crack!
and the headset i shaking like crazy, not the foldy i made sure it's not,
it's like the headset is just not able to be tightened.
what the heck!?

by the way, isnt the foldy suppose to be welded on the b model?
i checked the MS130B1 picture on the Jdbug website,
the foldy IS welded like how it was on the old As,
like completely welded around all the contacting space between the foldy and the deck,
but the one that i received, only had something like those cold weld glues on the four corner of the foldy.
i began to think that the store sold me a FAKE b model,
and the weird thing is that the manual inside the box is Japanese and the box is in English, but the box looks extremely fake.
and JD bug is the brand in Euro, and JD Razor is the brand in Japan,
so how can a japanese manual get into a Euro box?
and there is no information of the factory or company or any kind of information on the box.
it only says JDbug, and a couple pictures.
Can someone help me out here?


and i just did a more detailed inspection,
the multi mount clip for the strap is broken
the T tube is twisted, like i mean the T tube and the steer tube is not even lined up, like there is no way to fix that,
it's just made twisted, the track is made off centered.
like if you look down from the top,
the handle and the clamp are completely not centered,
it's like the track in the T tube is made not lined up with the steer tube.
and the axle in the folding mechanism is also crooked.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e351/bball4will/IMG_1661.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e351/bball4will/IMG_1662.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e351/bball4will/IMG_1669.jpg

corey, how did you do the whole fork replacement thing with them last time?
were they like fine with it, or were they not so happy with replacing?
Click to expand...

Hey that thing looks totally fake. I bet all they did was buy the grip tape.
 
M

Meep94

Member
okay probally no one will see this but I'm going to make my own bars but how can ID on the steer tube be 1 1/8? arnt they the same size as buff bars steer tube, 1 1/4? idk.. but I was going to order the metals from that online metal site but how do I know the thinkness of the tubes are?
 
E

ENERGY TURTLE

Member
ID of the steertube is 1 1/8", because thats the OD of the fork tube. OD of the steertube is 1 1/4" because that is what the clamps ID is. So the tube should have an ID of 1 1/8", a wall thickness of 1/8", and an OD of 1 1/4. and then how long you want it to be. Then the crossbar should have a OD of 7/8" and a wall thickness of about .068 I think, then however long you want it.
 
B

bball4will

Member
Hopesta said:
Hey that thing looks totally fake. I bet all they did was buy the grip tape.
Click to expand...
that is exactly what i thought when i first opened it.
i sent it back already and i'm waiting for the refund.
i dont like they way they treat their customers,
they are always like dodging my calls and emails,
and they dont reply them until like the forth or fifth time.
 
B

Brian Boston

I got myself banned.
Hopesta said:
Will said:
Just got the scooter, it was HORRIBLE!
Parts are missing and scratches on the new scooter, and there is even a crack!
and the headset i shaking like crazy, not the foldy i made sure it's not,
it's like the headset is just not able to be tightened.
what the heck!?

by the way, isnt the foldy suppose to be welded on the b model?
i checked the MS130B1 picture on the Jdbug website,
the foldy IS welded like how it was on the old As,
like completely welded around all the contacting space between the foldy and the deck,
but the one that i received, only had something like those cold weld glues on the four corner of the foldy.
i began to think that the store sold me a FAKE b model,
and the weird thing is that the manual inside the box is Japanese and the box is in English, but the box looks extremely fake.
and JD bug is the brand in Euro, and JD Razor is the brand in Japan,
so how can a japanese manual get into a Euro box?
and there is no information of the factory or company or any kind of information on the box.
it only says JDbug, and a couple pictures.
Can someone help me out here?


and i just did a more detailed inspection,
the multi mount clip for the strap is broken
the T tube is twisted, like i mean the T tube and the steer tube is not even lined up, like there is no way to fix that,
it's just made twisted, the track is made off centered.
like if you look down from the top,
the handle and the clamp are completely not centered,
it's like the track in the T tube is made not lined up with the steer tube.
and the axle in the folding mechanism is also crooked.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e351/bball4will/IMG_1661.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e351/bball4will/IMG_1662.jpg

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e351/bball4will/IMG_1669.jpg

corey, how did you do the whole fork replacement thing with them last time?
were they like fine with it, or were they not so happy with replacing?
Click to expand...

Hey that thing looks totally fake. I bet all they did was buy the grip tape.
Click to expand...
The pictures suck. But it looks somewhat legit, except the sticker on the t tube being backwards. The welds on JDBugs are on only at the corners of the mechs. If theyre letting you return it though dont sweat it haha.

mat said:
http://www.powerslide-racing.com/index.php?datei=pages/inh_wheels_xtype.htm&nav3=nav3-wheels.htm

r these really metal cores?
Click to expand...
Looks plastic to me, and on the left in the descriptions it says
6-spoke 608-hub;
milky SHR-PU;
race profile

That color is kinda milky, not metallic.
 
Jordan Jasa

Jordan Jasa

Silver Member
Ã?Æ?Ã?â??Ã?¢ââ??‰â??¢Ã?Æ?ââ?¬Å¡Ã?â??Ã?²Scooter DavoÃ?Æ?Ã?â??Ã?â??Ã?¯Ã?Æ?ââ?¬Å¡Ã?â??Ã?¿Ã?Æ?ââ?¬Å¡Ã?â??Ã?½Ã?Æ?Ã?â??Ã?â??Ã?¯Ã?Æ?ââ?¬Å¡Ã?â??Ã?¿Ã?Æ?ââ?¬Å¡Ã?â??Ã?½ said:
what do the gold stars under your name mean?
Click to expand...
just how many posts you have. however, in your profile, people can rate you with the stars.
 
Tristan Mathews

Tristan Mathews

Member
Ã?Æ?Ã?â??Ã?¢ââ??‰â??¢Ã?Æ?ââ?¬Å¡Ã?â??Ã?²Scooter DavoÃ?Æ?Ã?â??Ã?â??Ã?¯Ã?Æ?ââ?¬Å¡Ã?â??Ã?¿Ã?Æ?ââ?¬Å¡Ã?â??Ã?½ said:
i dont get what just how many post you have means
Click to expand...
Davo, davo, davo lol he means the more posts you have the more stars you have until you have 10 stars which is 'i post more then i ride'
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top