majohnson1
Bronze member
So I wanted to provide a review of what might be one of the best forks on the market, the Epic RG125. But I have to put an asterisk next to that statement because it took a bit of modification to get it to feel super dialed, please continue reading.
First, let's look at the positive aspects of this fork.
1. Supports 125mm wheels without any modification. I believe that in the future, 125mm wheels will be a lot more common. I mean even Proto is even developing 125s right now. I personally prefer 125s to 110s.
2. Integrated crown race.
3. CNC'd from 6061-T6. The fork legs have an X style gusset in them and they look super strong.
4. Made in the USA.
5. Some unique color ways.
Here are my negative aspects of this fork:
1. Ships with a button style axle. This thing is probably made of pot metal, too. This thing will strip out in about 3-4 torque cycles. I mitigated this by copping a new axle from Ace Hardware.
2. The removable star nut. It takes an 8mm hex to install. The fork is internally threaded with a M16x1.5 thread, which the OD of the removable star nut is also threaded with. The ID of the star nut is threaded with a M6x1 (standard star nut thread). I could never get my scooter to dial using the removable star nut. It wasn't THAT bad but if you are really particular about dialing your setup then it will drive you nuts. I mitigated this by using a different compression bolt, here are the details.
I used a M16x1.5x30 long socket head cap screw and an appropriately sized washer. I actually ended up using 2 washers because the M16x1.5 internal threads in the fork tube have a "stopping" feature machined into them (this is so you don't accidentally screw the removable star nut in too far and lose it inside the fork tube), so using 2 washers gives a bit more margin against bottoming out the compression bolt. It would've been possible to use a headset spacer instead but I can't stand the way headset spacers look on scooters. A standard M16 bolt uses a 14mm hex.
With a TSI headtube and a headset, the fork tube sticks up 1.633 inches. With the big compression bolt and 2 washers, it works out perfect with a 4" SCS. If you had a 3" SCS and wanted to use this big compression bolt, you would be looking at running a headset spacer(s). There is room to cut just a bit of fork tube off but I wasn't really interested in that at this time. I attached a picture of the hardware I selected compared to the hardware it ships with.
First, let's look at the positive aspects of this fork.
1. Supports 125mm wheels without any modification. I believe that in the future, 125mm wheels will be a lot more common. I mean even Proto is even developing 125s right now. I personally prefer 125s to 110s.
2. Integrated crown race.
3. CNC'd from 6061-T6. The fork legs have an X style gusset in them and they look super strong.
4. Made in the USA.
5. Some unique color ways.
Here are my negative aspects of this fork:
1. Ships with a button style axle. This thing is probably made of pot metal, too. This thing will strip out in about 3-4 torque cycles. I mitigated this by copping a new axle from Ace Hardware.
2. The removable star nut. It takes an 8mm hex to install. The fork is internally threaded with a M16x1.5 thread, which the OD of the removable star nut is also threaded with. The ID of the star nut is threaded with a M6x1 (standard star nut thread). I could never get my scooter to dial using the removable star nut. It wasn't THAT bad but if you are really particular about dialing your setup then it will drive you nuts. I mitigated this by using a different compression bolt, here are the details.
I used a M16x1.5x30 long socket head cap screw and an appropriately sized washer. I actually ended up using 2 washers because the M16x1.5 internal threads in the fork tube have a "stopping" feature machined into them (this is so you don't accidentally screw the removable star nut in too far and lose it inside the fork tube), so using 2 washers gives a bit more margin against bottoming out the compression bolt. It would've been possible to use a headset spacer instead but I can't stand the way headset spacers look on scooters. A standard M16 bolt uses a 14mm hex.
With a TSI headtube and a headset, the fork tube sticks up 1.633 inches. With the big compression bolt and 2 washers, it works out perfect with a 4" SCS. If you had a 3" SCS and wanted to use this big compression bolt, you would be looking at running a headset spacer(s). There is room to cut just a bit of fork tube off but I wasn't really interested in that at this time. I attached a picture of the hardware I selected compared to the hardware it ships with.