Make your stock pro model as solid as possible!

qwxor

I got myself banned.
Ok soooooo some of you, like me, are like, hey i wanna ride stock because i either can't afford to buy all these nice new parts and make my scooter dialed like hep greg who is such a god omg omg omg<3, or you just dont want to, or whatever the fuck your reason is. even if you do have some upgraded parts some of these tips might help, i might and probably will throw some pictures in later

1

-First off, you've got your bars, these things are wiggly as fuck and you want to burn them right? ok so there's two options:
A) You bolt them, what you're gonna need is: 2 front axles, 4 washers (or 2 bearings, whatever you want), and a drill and a 5/16 drill bit.
basically what you're going to do is, you see that hole where the buttons went? well you can take the buttons out of the bars, and drill a hole right through the bars and keep drilling until you get out the other side. then just make sure your front axle fits and bam. you can do this with your two stock bars, or go buy a pipe that will fit and drill that. just bolt them up<3 shouldn't be too hard to understand this.
This is what they'll look like when finished (yours will probably look better i did mine really shitty)
1z6s3h3.jpg

2cqg13p.jpg

b) You papertrick them (alllllllll credit to jon reyes? he created this mod i THINK help me out if he didnt) honestly i suck at this and fail really hard so if jon or anybody else wants to do a tutorial for this they can. basically what youre doing is taking paper and sticking it in between the bar and where the bar goes in so it's solid. awesome


2

-Next thing, that annoying as thing that your knee keeps hitting, theres a few things you can do with this:
A) keep it on and deal with it if youre lazy, it'll be solid sooo dont worry about that
b) take off that big lever thing (use jordan jasas tutorial) Located here --> http://www.scooterresource.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?493628.0
C) bolt your ttube + steertube, basically the same thing as your bars, just bolt through with a front axle (you dont need any washers or bearings for this)
When you bolt your ttube + steertube, you can bolt it anywhere you like along the steertube
I choose to bolt mine lower cause i'm weird.

2yvmq75.jpg

2a0cacw.jpg



3

-Ok you did all that and you still feel your bars wiggling WTF is this right? no it's your headset. take the clamp and bars off (i hope to god you know how to do this. now you've got those two nuts (no homo) at the top of your headtube on the fork. they're obviously not connected, so what you have to do is (preferably put the fork in a vice, and take some channel locks and loosen/tighten it to the point where:
Take it out of the vice, and shake the headtube or fork and make sure it's SOLID and theres absolutely no clink clink sound or whatever it is. then if it's solid spin the fork around (just like push the fork legs around) it's not going to be spinning like 100 times without being touched, but you want it so it spins maybe 1-3 times around without much effort, cause once your bars are on it'll be alot different. just MAKE SURE the thing is solid. just keep playing around with it until you have it perfect, cause this is one of those bad problems for noisy loud scooters. awesome once you have that it's sweet

4

-Nowww your foldy should be bolted so all you have to do for that is just tighen the bolts a little and those will be fine.

5

-Ok the brake is usually a killer when it comes to noisy scooters, it usually clonks around like a fuckhead so what youre gonna need is two nickels and a flathead screwdriver. now theres two places youre gonna put the nickels
-first off take off your back wheel.
-the spring against the bottom of the deck (inside) is a tough spot to get, what i did was put the nickel inside the deck so that you can slide it down when you move the deck a certain way. youre going to take the flathead and push the spring up and hold it there. then let the nickel slide right down under the spot where the springs going to be when you let go. and there you go that's one nickel spot down. and dont worry it won't come out or anything
-the second nickel is alot easier. for this one, look at your break and its a big curve, and the spot where the end of the spring and the kinda flat spot of the break is where its gonna go, just do the same thing lift up the spring with your screwdriver and place the nickel under there.
- after you've done all this check your break and see if it wiggles, if it still does maybe try and put another nickel so you have two in one of the spots or just try a new break bolt, or spring cause yours might be fucked. mine bolt was bent and it still worked so you should be fine

The first nickel:
1z4xsti.jpg

The second nickel:
i6gh2c.jpg




a few extra random tips
-if you have stock bearings or any bearings for that let them soak in rubbing alchohol for an hour or so, i thought maybe it would help the wheels spin faster if you even put the bearing spacer and the two axles they spin on in the liquid. so i did and it spins really nicely so if you want you can do that as well, just throw them all in a little cup or something and soak them for a while
-tighten everything<33333
-ill add more when i think of them?
-Ill try and get some pictures and maybe go back and make it look nicer and whatever, or if a lovely mod wants to fix all my grammar for me
 

idk47

Steel Member
Really good tutorial Chris. And if you can't get the 2 giant nuts off, lol, then drip oil in the threads right above the giant nuts then put them in the vice so that the fork is facing you, take your wheel off. Ok now put a screw driver or long 5/16 bolt through the holes and push and turn it to the left. That's how i always get it off when it's stuck.

And remember to loosen your double clamp after you adjust your headset, then make sure those nuts are tight on there, and push the clamp down hard so its pressing down on them to make sure they can't come loose. Then tighten and you're good.

Good job Chris<3
 

humpurple kushiones

Steel Member
ohhhh thank you sooooooooooooooo much for the nickle thing.. and what i did for the wiggle in the handllebars is hotglue. it will never ever move. but you have to only put the hotglue on the bottomof the bar befor you push it in (no homo). then slid it in fast (no homo) and make sure the button clicks
 

me1

Member
Chris, you see that electrical tape on your bars? You need that because you bolted it low. I always drill where te clamp was so it will be the same, then cut down my t-tube so I can reinforce my fork.
 
Tryed the Coin under Spring, No Nose Works Treat, as not need change brake :)

it yeah would maybe come out when riding, so im going weld up a bit & grind it down next time i do sum modding so it does not makes terrible noise
 

qwxor

I got myself banned.
Josh Serafin said:
Chris, you see that electrical tape on your bars? You need that because you bolted it low. I always drill where te clamp was so it will be the same, then cut down my t-tube so I can reinforce my fork.

the electrical tape on my bars is so i dont cut my wrist when i do a front bri
 

Chaseme37

Member
dude not only was this tutorial super helpful it was also really enjoyable to read! Like I was fully laughing out loud when you said (no homo) haha. great job chris!
 

austin21

Member
chris thx so much i mean i have had that break wigglin forever thx so much i just got back from doing it and it really works every thing he said in the tut works so thx again and if anyone has a wiggling break do that technique bcz it worked for me
 
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