after breaking a starnut yesterday I agree starnuts are shit
Parts you want to see / Part Ideas
- Thread starter thealexbuffery
- Start date
Billie Rainbow
Silver Member
try this idea for size, works for hic(short distance between starnut placement and top of shim+topcap) and scs (similar deal)
1 starnut(depends on what your forks take)
1 ics10 bolt+nut, maybe 2 10mm flat washers for plan b
10mm drill bit
flat top compression cap (like with tilt scs, or do whatever you reckon works to hold the nut flat)
grinder,dremel or hacksaw if you have skill
needle nose pliers
take the star nut and cut the smallest slit possible on one of the gaps of the star itself so you can get it off with pliers, get both if you can.
you will notice once you get it off that the bore of the star is approx 10mm, now what happens is you place the bolt into forktube head first so it comes bolt end up, you might/should of checked out if it would reach by now as i said up top, the ics10 bolts are pretty long so no probs for scs but hic i see some that cant do it.
drill out top comp cap to fit 10mm bolt, nothin special but it has to be fairly flat at the top
hammer one of the stars in with bolt sticking out so it will definitely fit, one should be enough for alu forks, not tested with crmo but if they usually stay then this should hold but might move because it holds 50X the force that the starnut could. if you are capable of doing this mod you could probs grind a lip on the forktube for the star to lock into.
the rest shouldnt need explaining but no you do not need the ics10 allen key, the bolt is long as fuck and you should be able to hold the bolt whilst screwing the nut on, careful if you use pliers tho, put some material between pliers and bolt.
yes you can take it out again if the bolt wont go thru the bottom of the fork, if you cut the star off then it can crush up when time for removal.
1 starnut(depends on what your forks take)
1 ics10 bolt+nut, maybe 2 10mm flat washers for plan b
10mm drill bit
flat top compression cap (like with tilt scs, or do whatever you reckon works to hold the nut flat)
grinder,dremel or hacksaw if you have skill
needle nose pliers
take the star nut and cut the smallest slit possible on one of the gaps of the star itself so you can get it off with pliers, get both if you can.
you will notice once you get it off that the bore of the star is approx 10mm, now what happens is you place the bolt into forktube head first so it comes bolt end up, you might/should of checked out if it would reach by now as i said up top, the ics10 bolts are pretty long so no probs for scs but hic i see some that cant do it.
drill out top comp cap to fit 10mm bolt, nothin special but it has to be fairly flat at the top
hammer one of the stars in with bolt sticking out so it will definitely fit, one should be enough for alu forks, not tested with crmo but if they usually stay then this should hold but might move because it holds 50X the force that the starnut could. if you are capable of doing this mod you could probs grind a lip on the forktube for the star to lock into.
the rest shouldnt need explaining but no you do not need the ics10 allen key, the bolt is long as fuck and you should be able to hold the bolt whilst screwing the nut on, careful if you use pliers tho, put some material between pliers and bolt.
yes you can take it out again if the bolt wont go thru the bottom of the fork, if you cut the star off then it can crush up when time for removal.
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Marketship
Silver Member
u da real mvp
Phase Three
Silver Member
green tilt parts
MattThomMakesMeWarmInside
Silver Member
A slimmed down full size SCS. Like the TILT Lt, but with the extra inch. PROTO is a bit too chunky for my preferences
Phase Three
Silver Member
tilt forks with an extra .5 in for full size scs
Phase Three
Silver Member
a 3.5 full scs. 2 in on the bottom and 1.5 on the top so your bars are higher while still having a light compact scs. that would be dooope. pretty much just a better version of a full scs.
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Here is one way to disable the brake:
I did this because I have already found enough ways to fall while learning basics such as 180s. Accidental brake is one less now.
Nick Henry
Member
A thin laminent on the sides of the deck, like a bit of rubber. So it would prevent the metal from being worn down on the sides of the deck when dropped.
michael bowers
Bronze member
i dont understand.......you guys have such a problem with hitting your brake.......just dont fucking have one.......TAKE IT OFF
Phase Three
Silver Member
I had the exact same idea
I see this is going more towards the "brakeless vs fixed fender" discussion:
taking it completely off doesn't completely prevent you from blocking the wheel. If a rider is hitting his brake blocking its wheel doing 180s, then he's more likely to block his wheel with his foot if he goes brakeless as well. Hence why a fixed fender is a handy solution for preventing your feet from blocking the wheel in any given way.
Erik larsson clifford
Member
Some tie dye stuff would be cool and hydro formed parts (meaning no welds)
Beck Dobrzanski
Steel Member
thealexbuffery
Gold Member
BBS spoke wheels haha
841 might have sortof done that already tho idk
841 might have sortof done that already tho idk
Phase Three
Silver Member
Phase Three
Silver Member
tsi pilots
