SCS Help

-Sal-

-Sal-

Bronze member
i recently got an SCS for my scooter. i am running it with razor ultra pro bars and a phoenix fork. i also have an integrated phoenix deck as well.

I am sure that i tightened each bolt one by one, but the bottom bolt of the clamp is stuck and when i try to loosen it it doesn't budge, and when it does it makes a weird sound and barely moves.

Once i get my compression off, i also need help in dialing the headset. it is a problem i have had on all my scooters and never seemed to get it without a little bit of wobble. i thought that the SCS would help this problem, but it is only making it worse.

Can anyone help me out with these two problems?
Thanks.
 
Scott Trainer

Scott Trainer

Super Moderator
Staff member
Make sure you grease the bolts and stuff. I had the same problem. If the sound youre talking about is like a really loud creak, thats the metal giving, which means pretty much stripping. Mine did that the first few times I took it apart. Grease the hole and the bolts, losen/tighten the bolts one at a time and little bits at a time, and it should all work out.
 
-Sal-

-Sal-

Bronze member
it is just the bottom bolt near the fork, i loosened every other bolt but i did not try the grease yet.. how would i get the grease in the hole if the bolt is inside?
also, would any kind of grease work? such as WD-40?
 
G

GregMort

Member
Sal,
I know your feeling man. I seem to have this problem everytime i want to change my fork or bars with my baby scs. There is a couple diferrent things that you can do. the scs is a very temprimental tool, and once you learn how to use it properly, it is very effective and will provide your scooter with no headset wobble. First you must know that there is an order to tighten the bolts properly.
_____
l 1)
l 2)
l 3)
l 4)

1.) Ive tried my best to map ot the bolts on the scs(bare with me). you must tighten the bolts in this order then repeat(do not go out of this order!) 1 3 2 4 then stop and repeat. you will feel everytime you start this order over again, the bolts are magically loose again. this is good. all the bolts work off of eachother to tighten the device.
2.) when looking at the back of the device, you must know that the left side(the side with the head is NOT threaded.) this will become very important
3.)you must understand that the bolts are 6mm threads and the head takes a 5mm allen key. dont use anything different. you WILL strip it.
4.) the bolts have lock heads, meaning, once you get them in so tight, all them little ridges you see on the head of the bolt bond to the inside of the scs, making that creeking sound you hear when loosing it.

here are my tips for you which i have done which make the scs 71209381209381290x easier to use. take a grinder equipped with a grinding blade, not a cutting blade, and grinf off all them little ridges you see on the head of the bolt, therefore making the bolts easier to remove. regularly grease the threads on the bolt and the threads on the inside of the scs.

IMPORTANT: guaranteed removal of a stripped bolt
most likely in trying to loosen that bolt, yours going to strip it. ive done it at least 3 times.

1.) get a grinder with a cutting blade or zawsaw and cut the bolt in the little gap between the two side of the scs. cut the bolt as close as possible to the side of the head.
2.) take needlenose pliers and twist the bolt until you can grab it out of the other end of the scs(twist it like you would be tightening it)
3.) once you can grab the piece of the bolt on the outside of the scs, grab it with the pliers and twist it all the way out
4.) last but not least, take your allen key or a punch and a hammer and stick it through the empty side of the bolt hole and tap the head out towards the outside of the scs. it should come right out.

the only downside to doing this is that your down a bolt now. but conveniently you can go to your local hardware store and get a new one for about 75 cents. I just did this whole process yesterday and it took about 20 minutes and 72 cents for the new bolt.

just try to follow my advice and it will work fine. hope i helped! ill try to make a video of this process asap or next time it happens to me
 
-Sal-

-Sal-

Bronze member
i don't think i have the tool or want to cut the bolt out because i don't want to ruin my SCS and have it be a waist of money. im pretty pissed off at this now because i stripped my bolt and have a scooter that i cant ride and i need to have it fixed by this weekend.

and if i cant get the bolt of out the scooter with it not being cut.. how will cutting it help come out considering there wouldnt be as much grip with the plyers than with a 5mm allen key in the 5mm hole.
 
-Sal-

-Sal-

Bronze member
my bad dude. but you were right now the part where you put the allen key is stripped... would i need to get a bolt extractor in order to take it out?
 
G

GregMort

Member
if you ride baby scs like me... i had mine from not cutting my fork tube down enough.. but other then that.. idk what to say.. btw im uploading that video now man.
 
G

GregMort

Member
ive gone through the problem so many times and noone ever thinks of that way.. just trying to help out a fellow scooter rider
 
R-Dubya

R-Dubya

Steel Member
Play in the headset either means you're not tightening the SCS enough or your SCS's inner diameter is bigger than your fork's outer diameter when fully tightened. It happened to me with certain forks when I ran Baby SCS.

If it's the first problem, you're tightening the clamp before you compress the headset in one of two ways. One, you need to tighten the compression bolt first. The four clamp bolts come last. Second, if you need to stretch your clamp to get the SCS on your fork, KEEP the SCS stretched until after you tighten the compression bolt.

Second problem is play in the SCS itself. I had it on my DSA fork and it sucked. You can tell by the bars being able to move back and forth a bit regardless of how tight your headset is, as well as the SCS becoming unaligned very quickly (The SCS itself, the bars will still be straight in the SCS). For this problem, the fix is pretty easy. Take a soda can, cut it, and make a shim out of it. Measure the approximate height from your top seal of your headset to the top of your fork tube (eyeballing is fine) and stretch your scs, slide the SCS and shim over your fork (it takes some practice to get that part right), and then tighten your compression bolt while it's still stretched. Once you un-stretch it, it should be super tight on your fork. If it's not, add another shim. I got my SCS and my friend's SCS super dialed this way.
 
-Sal-

-Sal-

Bronze member
thank you for your help greg i really appreciate it.. but i tried using a bolt extractor but it just wound up breaking.. i think the only way i can fix it is to drill it out. i think im going to send it back to inward and they will send it back to me once they fix it, pretty legit.

but im using the phorx and it is specifically made for the SCS, i am using an integrated phoenix deck along with the fsa headset that came with it. i tightened it before i tightened the clamp too, but it still wobbles like a bitch. not sure why though
 
mason buckley

mason buckley

Member
tighten the other bolts then undo all of them, and to fix your headset just undo all of the outside bolts and tighten the bolt inside then tighten the other bolts
 
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