SCS Starnut and .120 Inward Fork

P

p.c

Member
grind or saw extra big slits 1-2mm extra
Then bend the petals/flanges in more then hammer it In it should be fine
 
Madis

Madis

Super Geek
Staff member
Alex Steezeman said:
Get some needle nose pliers and bend the bottom edges of the star nut in slightly, just so that it makes it easier to go in. Just make sure you don't bend them so far that they don't touch the walls anymore. Also, just wail on it.
Click to expand...
For some good reason i even didn't need to do that when i was installing mine into a .150 fork,
the starnut-installer really helped me on this issue really good and fast.

Paul coates said:
grind or saw extra big slits 1-2mm extra
Then bend the petals/flanges in more then hammer it In it should be fine
Click to expand...
Never modify a starnut. Ever. Or you will be risking with the starnut's performance.

Tyler B. said:
yea you fill have to get a smaller snarnut cause you have a 120 inch wall
Click to expand...
If i could fit the same standard-sized starnut into a .150 wall tube within 5 minutes,
then fitting into a .120 is a piece of cake. Smaller starnuts are not required nor recommended.


Sam Aronie said:
I'm pretty sure that if Madis installed the starnut into a .150 fork. I can do it for .120. I just need to know how with a mallet?
Click to expand...
If you're planning to use a socket, read this:
Take a socket, so that the socket wouldn't give any force to the CORE of the starnut, but the flangs itself. I suggest to wear one glove in the hand where you are holding the starnut and the socket in your palm aligned, that way when hitting onto the socket, you won't scracth your hand and you won't have to reset the starnut and the socket to its place back for a nother hit with the hammer, just because you would be holding both of these items in your hand aligned during all process. Hit onto the socket multiple times, not too hard and not so gently. Do it so that the starnut's first flangs are going to bend eventually. REMINDER: this job needs patience, so don't expect the starnut to go into the forks within the first 5-10 hits. When you got the first flang in, the rest of it goes in easier. Just keep in mind that the starnut wouldn't be too deep and that it has to be straight.
 
Madis

Madis

Super Geek
Staff member
Not a towel, it will suck up the energy. Use a socket. From a socket wrench. You wouldn't want to hit direcntly on the edges of the starnut, right? And you wouldn't want to hit directly onto the core of the starnut either. Correct? So in order to not hit on the ends of the flangs nor the center core, you need to use a socket which will divide the pressure from a hammer's hit.
 
J

JonnyJonDogg

Member
Madis said:
Alex Steezeman said:
Get some needle nose pliers and bend the bottom edges of the star nut in slightly, just so that it makes it easier to go in. Just make sure you don't bend them so far that they don't touch the walls anymore. Also, just wail on it.
Click to expand...
For some good reason i even didn't need to do that when i was installing mine into a .150 fork,
the starnut-installer really helped me on this issue really good and fast.

Paul coates said:
grind or saw extra big slits 1-2mm extra
Then bend the petals/flanges in more then hammer it In it should be fine
Click to expand...
Never modify a starnut. Ever. Or you will be risking with the starnut's performance.

Tyler B. said:
yea you fill have to get a smaller snarnut cause you have a 120 inch wall
Click to expand...
If i could fit the same standard-sized starnut into a .150 wall tube within 5 minutes,
then fitting into a .120 is a piece of cake. Smaller starnuts are not required nor recommended.


Sam Aronie said:
I'm pretty sure that if Madis installed the starnut into a .150 fork. I can do it for .120. I just need to know how with a mallet?
Click to expand...
If you're planning to use a socket, read this:
Take a socket, so that the socket wouldn't give any force to the CORE of the starnut, but the flangs itself. I suggest to wear one glove in the hand where you are holding the starnut and the socket in your palm aligned, that way when hitting onto the socket, you won't scracth your hand and you won't have to reset the starnut and the socket to its place back for a nother hit with the hammer, just because you would be holding both of these items in your hand aligned during all process. Hit onto the socket multiple times, not too hard and not so gently. Do it so that the starnut's first flangs are going to bend eventually. REMINDER: this job needs patience, so don't expect the starnut to go into the forks within the first 5-10 hits. When you got the first flang in, the rest of it goes in easier. Just keep in mind that the starnut wouldn't be too deep and that it has to be straight.
Click to expand...
i did and mines perfect, still perfect today
 
I

I like scooter

Member
Madis said:
Not a towel, it will suck up the energy. Use a socket. From a socket wrench. You wouldn't want to hit direcntly on the edges of the starnut, right? And you wouldn't want to hit directly onto the core of the starnut either. Correct? So in order to not hit on the ends of the flangs nor the center core, you need to use a socket which will divide the pressure from a hammer's hit.
Click to expand...
I'm going to a bike shop on Monday, so it doesn't really matter anymore. And I was trying to slide the clamp over my fork and it wouldn't go on? I'll try to apply more pressure tomorrow. I just don't want it to get stuck without the starnut in the fork.
 
A

alexiorio

Member
Sam Aronie said:
Madis said:
Not a towel, it will suck up the energy. Use a socket. From a socket wrench. You wouldn't want to hit direcntly on the edges of the starnut, right? And you wouldn't want to hit directly onto the core of the starnut either. Correct? So in order to not hit on the ends of the flangs nor the center core, you need to use a socket which will divide the pressure from a hammer's hit.
Click to expand...
I'm going to a bike shop on Monday, so it doesn't really matter anymore. And I was trying to slide the clamp over my fork and it wouldn't go on? I'll try to apply more pressure tomorrow. I just don't want it to get stuck without the starnut in the fork.
Click to expand...
Grease.
 
D

demo

Member
i grinded the flanges and cut the slits. hammered that is there. for the scs. it worked for me. just make sure you grind evenly or the bolt will cross thread.
 
S

Steezeman

Administrator
Yeah I really wouldn't grind or cut the star nut at all. Just take it to a bike shop.

The SCS is a pretty tight fit, so yeah. It also might have been (for me) that I clear coated my whole fork so there was some paint built up on the fork tube.
 
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