YOUR SCOOTER #3

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Madis

Super Geek
Staff member
Today i went to the workshop.

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Rawed Bullet deck.
Welded foldy.
New grip.
Super solid.

I didn't let them touch the reinforcemets, i may change them some day (maybe after year or half?), so they are replaceble. Rawed deck looks more clean than in slate blue/gray tones with silvergray reinforcements, although now it looks like a Sprite, haha. Everything looks clean except the areas where were the bolts and washers - those were attached to the scooter when it was being rawed and welded, to keep the correct shape. Foldy is welded at the bottom and at the top of the deck. Neck plates are double as usual and merged to one. Neck plates are welded at front and at the top of the foldy, and they told me that the welding machine didn't fit in the foldy so i couldn't get the mechanism welded inside of it to connect plates and deck. But i'm suprised, i pulled in every direction at home and it's super solid, better than bolting. So it's waiting for a test ride and i'll try some big stuff on it to look how does it perform.

For everyone who buys a reinforced Micro foldy, aren't really diffirent from the regular Micro foldys. The little thing around it is made of some cheap stainless steel which actually snapped when it got a little heat today. And for those who's planning to buy a Bullet, buy a Sprite, because honestly, in my opinion, there's no diffirence (except the color?) when you ride it with reinforcement kit.
 
Is it really better than the screwed version? one of the main ideas of Micro scooters is 'anything but welds'. That's why the folding mech looks a little bit absurd. Does welding the thing together make it better? I don't see if there are single or double plates welded together but in either case, I think that plates will always be weaker than a pipe. I also thought that a bullet deck with a folding mechanism being attached such way would be brilliant to make a custom one piece head and neck which would be possible to be attached to the deck the same way as the folding mech.
 

Scooter Mcgee

Steel Member
grind plate beeotches 3mm thick

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I also got reinforcments every where its pretty sick.


holy crap madis im loving that i think decks and headtubes should be one peice like bikes...
 

Madis

Super Geek
Staff member
Pete Pachota said:
Is it really better than the screwed version? one of the main ideas of Micro scooters is 'anything but welds'. That's why the folding mech looks a little bit absurd. Does welding the thing together make it better? I don't see if there are single or double plates welded together but in either case, I think that plates will always be weaker than a pipe. I also thought that a bullet deck with a folding mechanism being attached such way would be brilliant to make a custom one piece head and neck which would be possible to be attached to the deck the same way as the folding mech.
- Yes it did. Since razor B and Pro models had two rails as a folding mechanism, two bolts went through the neck, and one is outside. If there's only two bolts, the neck may move back/forward. Well i always ride my bars/headtube as front as possible and on pro it would have started moving back. The third bolt's idea was to squeeze the rails together, so the neck can't come through to back between the rails. On a micro, you can't do that shit so the whole thing moves: the foldy on the deck, the plates on the foldy and the headtube on the plates. So i got it welded together so it won't move. After welding it, i took the bolts out and tried to move that thing. Then i struggled with it and tried to move every direction as hard as i could and it's solid as a rock. I'll have to see how does it perform on the test ride.

- "I think that plates will always be weaker than a pipe - is true. Since i haven't broken any double set of plates and i haven't seen and heard of anyone breaking a double set of plates, then there's nothing to vorry about them... yet.


$tan said:
u should still put in bolts tho

I'll put them back, if the foldy-to-plates connection is weak without bolts and starts cracking, then i would re-weld it and bolt it.



edit: Mcgee's scooter reminds me my idea which came true on Erti's scoot since i don't like riding old-A models.
http://www.toukeratas.com/pildid/skuuter/erti/grindplate1.jpg http://www.toukeratas.com/pildid/skuuter/erti/grindplate2.jpg - rest in peace (or should i say "in pieces").
That grindplate only covers your welds of the dropouts, but the rear fork itself would probably snap at the brake mount holes, because those are so low.
 

Stanio

EnDub Step
aaaah wtf is with the clicking in my micro METAL wheels???? can anyyone explain to me when i put in new bearings and they make clicky sounds?
 

Scooter Mcgee

Steel Member
Madis said:
Pete Pachota said:
Is it really better than the screwed version? one of the main ideas of Micro scooters is 'anything but welds'. That's why the folding mech looks a little bit absurd. Does welding the thing together make it better? I don't see if there are single or double plates welded together but in either case, I think that plates will always be weaker than a pipe. I also thought that a bullet deck with a folding mechanism being attached such way would be brilliant to make a custom one piece head and neck which would be possible to be attached to the deck the same way as the folding mech.
- Yes it did. Since razor B and Pro models had two rails as a folding mechanism, two bolts went through the neck, and one is outside. If there's only two bolts, the neck may move back/forward. Well i always ride my bars/headtube as front as possible and on pro it would have started moving back. The third bolt's idea was to squeeze the rails together, so the neck can't come through to back between the rails. On a micro, you can't do that shit so the whole thing moves: the foldy on the deck, the plates on the foldy and the headtube on the plates. So i got it welded together so it won't move. After welding it, i took the bolts out and tried to move that thing. Then i struggled with it and tried to move every direction as hard as i could and it's solid as a rock. I'll have to see how does it perform on the test ride.

- "I think that plates will always be weaker than a pipe - is true. Since i haven't broken any double set of plates and i haven't seen and heard of anyone breaking a double set of plates, then there's nothing to vorry about them... yet.


$tan said:
u should still put in bolts tho

I'll put them back, if the foldy-to-plates connection is weak without bolts and starts cracking, then i would re-weld it and bolt it.



edit: Mcgee's scooter reminds me my idea which came true on Erti's scoot since i don't like riding old-A models.
http://www.toukeratas.com/pildid/skuuter/erti/grindplate1.jpg http://www.toukeratas.com/pildid/skuuter/erti/grindplate2.jpg - rest in peace (or should i say "in pieces").
That grindplate only covers your welds of the dropouts, but the rear fork itself would probably snap at the brake mount holes, because those are so low.
what do you mean and btw i weigh 30 kilos and i have extra reinforcments. i got it donr free cause its my uncles sheetmetal shop... yay
 

the_SD_local

I own SR.
$tan said:
aaaah wtf is with the clicking in my micro METAL wheels???? can anyyone explain to me when i put in new bearings and they make clicky sounds?
The hubs might not be perfectly round and they are smashing your bearings. It is most likely one of the balls in the bearing clicking.
 

Eric Magray

Steel Member
Skewtarr Mcgee said:
...headtubes should be one peice like bikes...
omg ive been trying to tell people that but they think its gonna break. im definatly gonna have to make one and show everyone that it works

and madis youve got such a nice scoot, who do you get to weld all you stuff? do you just get a friend to weld it or do it yourself, a shop or what?

$tan said:
u should still put in bolts tho
with that weld right there \/ \/ \/ i really doubt youll need it

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