Couple questions

[tdadd]

I have 300 bucks to spend and I need to know what to get.

-Whats the difference between 100mm and 110mm wheels? (getting metalcores either way)

-Should I get 0.82, 1.20 thick wall, threaded or threadless, and offset or no offset for my Inward fork? ( I weight 115lbs)

-Is threaded or threadless better for forks? I have a threadless fsa bmx headset in my room atm if that helps.

Thanks

 

[charles]

1- 110 last longer.

2-idk about fork.

3-threadless is alot stronger, but you have to have a compression system

 

[tdadd]

Alright ill probably end up getting threadless fork, thank you - 1 question answered so far

 

[dre]

Just adding on to what charles said..

1- 110 last longer, and are a bit faster.

2-1.20 wall is gonna be stronger but slightly heavier, and if you like the feel of stock forks, then get offset, if you want easier nosemanuals, then get zero offset.

3-threadless is alot stronger, but you have to have a compression system

 

[Madis]

100 or 110? Like as you would refer to micros. They have the same core, so 110 has more urethane which means a higher risk of dehubbing and micro's cores tend to ovalize. I'd suggest Proto wheels, they have a pretty good core design that doesn't ovalize and they come in 110mm.

As for the forks, i'd recommend the one with the .120" wall, threadless and WITH offset, since it has gussets, but you'll need a compression as well (i don't like inward's compression, so i suggest you should look for SR's inverted compression for your inward fork).

 

[scoot4lifecrew]

get wee bars or seasoned bars

 

[tdadd]

does the zero offset fork make anything else harder? or Just make nose manuals easier. Because if all it does is make nose manuals easier then I'm getting that. Not to mention it's like 17 bucks cheaper.

 

[tdadd]

100 or 110? Like as you would refer to micros. They have the same core, so 110 has more urethane which means a higher risk of dehubbing and micro's cores tend to ovalize. I'd suggest Proto wheels, they have a pretty good core design that doesn't ovalize and they come in 110mm.

As for the forks, i'd recommend the one with the .120" wall, threadless and WITH offset, since it has gussets, but you'll need a compression as well (i don't like inward's compression, so i suggest you should look for SR's inverted compression for your inward fork).

I was referring to eaglesport metalcores.

 

[tdadd]

Anyone else?

 

[AnthonyPellino]

^^Triple post aah o_0

 

[MattThomMakesMeWarmInside]

well It almost sounds like you just want a good scooter, but uhh if you must just get PROTO wheels (cheappp and for 10 more bucks thats way more time love and care andrew has put into the wheels.) You really dont sound like you know what your doing, but In general threadless forks are stronger but threadless .120 inwards are dumb and pointless. Spend the extra 5 bucks for the wall and spend 15 bucks for threads (for threadless yo have to buy a compression and threadless headset anyway so thats not a rip)

 

[Hep Greg]

I have 300 bucks to spend and I need to know what to get.

-Whats the difference between 100mm and 110mm wheels? (getting metalcores either way)

-Should I get 0.82, 1.20 thick wall, threaded or threadless, and offset or no offset for my Inward fork? ( I weight 115lbs)

-Is threaded or threadless better for forks? I have a threadless fsa bmx headset in my room atm if that helps.

Thanks

Get 100mm Eaglesports.

get a 1.20 threaded fork, with offset. zero offset forks suck, and they make nose manuals harder (for me at least)

Threadless is only better if you have a compression system, and if the forktube you plan on getting is on the thin side. if you get a 1.20 threaded fork, you wont break it.

 

[tdadd]

I have 300 bucks to spend and I need to know what to get.

-Whats the difference between 100mm and 110mm wheels? (getting metalcores either way)

-Should I get 0.82, 1.20 thick wall, threaded or threadless, and offset or no offset for my Inward fork? ( I weight 115lbs)

-Is threaded or threadless better for forks? I have a threadless fsa bmx headset in my room atm if that helps.

Thanks

Get 100mm Eaglesports.

get a 1.20 threaded fork, with offset. zero offset forks suck, and they make nose manuals harder (for me at least)

Threadless is only better if you have a compression system, and if the forktube you plan on getting is on the thin side. if you get a 1.20 threaded fork, you wont break it.

And what If I do have a compression system already? And I have a threadless headset. Still go for he threaded forks?

 

[Rob.]

No.

Get dual proto metal cores. they're 110. unless they're out of stock, then get eagles (but protos > eagles)

.120 inch threaded zero offset fork. Takes a bit of getting use to but it's smooth afterwards, hang fives and stuff.

Uh, threaded is easier to work with, you need compression system for threadless

 

[tdadd]

This is why I have no idea what to get, some people telling me to get 110mm wheels, some telling me to get zero offset. And the proto wheels are out of stock atm. Will a threaded fork rattle or anything?

 

[maxlikesscooters]

1. 110 has more urthane..and in Eagles case..they are very good wheels so get 110mm.

2.Get .120 with offset and threaded would be best if you don't know compressin well. But threadless is best.

But seriously don't get zero offset..it looks odd and feels odd aswell.

 

[Hep Greg]

I have 300 bucks to spend and I need to know what to get.

-Whats the difference between 100mm and 110mm wheels? (getting metalcores either way)

-Should I get 0.82, 1.20 thick wall, threaded or threadless, and offset or no offset for my Inward fork? ( I weight 115lbs)

-Is threaded or threadless better for forks? I have a threadless fsa bmx headset in my room atm if that helps.

Thanks

Get 100mm Eaglesports.

get a 1.20 threaded fork, with offset. zero offset forks suck, and they make nose manuals harder (for me at least)

Threadless is only better if you have a compression system, and if the forktube you plan on getting is on the thin side. if you get a 1.20 threaded fork, you wont break it.

And what If I do have a compression system already? And I have a threadless headset. Still go for he threaded forks?

if you have a compression system then get threadless.

 

[MattThomMakesMeWarmInside]

This is why I have no idea what to get, some people telling me to get 110mm wheels, some telling me to get zero offset. And the proto wheels are out of stock atm. Will a threaded fork rattle or anything?

zero offset if a prefrence. If you wanna try something kinda new, weird, not as beefy and strong and a little bit cheaper get zero. If you want a somewhat stronger fork that wont always feel weird when your using someone else scooter and like the feel of razor stock forks then get offset ones. Plus they have gussets, I mean cmon we all know gussets are always gooood.

Unless you whip 10 sets and break wheels in half I think you can wait for PROTOS by getting around on hotglued stock wheels that you scrap from. I'm not saying eagles arent legit, I've never ridden either but I think in my opinion its safe to say protos are made from Buff himself, where he completely focused on a truly excellent wheel. Eagles were originally meant to be roller ski wheels and are only just 10 dollars less, why not just throw in the extra 10 bucks. Plus they are still only 100mm where protos are 110s.If you really want eagles, buy them., some people hate big 110s anyway....

FINALLY the fork shouldn't rattle, if it does its not actually your fork. SORRY FOR LONG WINDED CONVERSATION BUT I WANT YOU TO HAVE ALL THE IN DEPTH INFORMATION YOU NEED AND WANT SO THAT THIS THREAD CAN END

 

[Kay Are]

i have protos and 100 mm eagle sports the protos are faster than the eagles i haven't ridden 110 eagles but they look good and i think greg runs em overall both great wheels but make sure you wear em in up front before putin em on back

compression is very confusing the problem that i find is if you dont know what you are doing when you put the starnut in you will f.uck it up unless you know someone who has done this before and if u take it into a bicycle shop they will usaully put it in for you if you bribe em with money but if you ever switch bars you have to put in a new starnut

i rode a zero off set inward fork and to be honest i didn't like it so i think the fork with offset is the way to go plus it has so gussets it will not bend i also think the inward scooters compression looks pretty good its reusable pretty simple so that you cant f.uck it up

 

[tdadd]

Do the 110mm wheels feel alot different than 100mm? I ride 100mm atm and they seem fine but if I'm going to be spending $70 on wheels I want to know I'm getting the right ones. As for the fork, I think I'm going with an unthreaded/offset/.120 fork.