One pieces.

c4scooters

Barspins
Here are my reviews.

5/5
C4's are pretty much resistant to bending. We use .12" thick crossbar tubing. 100% American cromo.

4/5
SZ One-Pieces are pretty amazing. Pretty light, and cromo. The welds could be better where the larger crossbar meets the smaller crossbar, but hey, it's not like thats going to break.

5/5
FrenchID bars are pretty amazing. High grade aluminum and comes powder coated... What more can you ask? The best aluminum bars on the market... Well, their the only one piece bars on the market!
 

Sshields32

Steel Member
Taylor Feist said:
slayers are 1 peices
it says. right in my first post.

NOT TO MENTIONS SLAYERS OR BUFFS.

and the first noob that walked into my thread. mentions them.

Gtfo powernoob.



THANKS GINO!
 
Gino Troian said:
5/5
C4's are pretty much resistant to bending. We use .12" thick crossbar tubing. 100% American cromo.
0.12" is too thick. The cross bar might not be able to bend, but it puts too much stress on the welds and will cause them to crack over time. For anything over ~0.1" wall you need (for utmost strength) to preheat and post-weld heat treat the bars, which would be a huge waste considering nobody has bent 0.065" cross bar w/ 0.058" steering column. It's overly heavy, and more bound to break because you use the thicker crossbar tubing. And trust me, I'd much rather have my cross bar bend than the welds break and my face/neck be impaled by the sharp chromoly.

You can read some more on here: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/chrome-moly.asp

"Q. Do I need to pre-heat?
A. Thin wall tubing (< 0.120" wall) applications do not typically require the normal 300Ã?â??Ã?ºF to 400Ã?â??Ã?ºF pre-heat to obtain acceptable results. However, tubing should be at room temperature (70Ã?â??Ã?ºF) or above before welding."

"Q. Do I need to heat treat (stress relieve) 4130 after welding?
A. Thin wall tubing normally does not require stress relief. For parts thicker than .120", stress-relieving is recommended and 1,100Ã?â??Ã?ºF is the optimum temperature for tubing applications. An Oxy/Acetylene torch with neutral flame can be used. It should be oscillated to avoid hot spots."
 

humpurple kushiones

Steel Member
Cooper Klaar said:
bump
barsbroke.jpg

yes thats broken :(
 

c4scooters

Barspins
Conor Davidson said:
Gino Troian said:
5/5
C4's are pretty much resistant to bending. We use .12" thick crossbar tubing. 100% American cromo.
0.12" is too thick. The cross bar might not be able to bend, but it puts too much stress on the welds and will cause them to crack over time. For anything over ~0.1" wall you need (for utmost strength) to preheat and post-weld heat treat the bars, which would be a huge waste considering nobody has bent 0.065" cross bar w/ 0.058" steering column. It's overly heavy, and more bound to break because you use the thicker crossbar tubing. And trust me, I'd much rather have my cross bar bend than the welds break and my face/neck be impaled by the sharp chromoly.

You can read some more on here: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/chrome-moly.asp

"Q. Do I need to pre-heat?
A. Thin wall tubing (< 0.120" wall) applications do not typically require the normal 300Ã?â??Ã?ºF to 400Ã?â??Ã?ºF pre-heat to obtain acceptable results. However, tubing should be at room temperature (70Ã?â??Ã?ºF) or above before welding."

"Q. Do I need to heat treat (stress relieve) 4130 after welding?
A. Thin wall tubing normally does not require stress relief. For parts thicker than .120", stress-relieving is recommended and 1,100Ã?â??Ã?ºF is the optimum temperature for tubing applications. An Oxy/Acetylene torch with neutral flame can be used. It should be oscillated to avoid hot spots."

Hey,

I don't know what that shit means but I do agree that the crossbar is very thick. I doubt the welds will break because Rayan Simian has ridden his bars for over 6 months. He has whipped some huge ass gaps and stairsets, most of which people can't even jump. Just recently he just cracked his bars, right on top of the stress cuts (or whatever you call it).

The prototype bars were welded by a beginner welder, but the new bars (V2's) were welded by a professional. The welder had an awesome idea of making a double bead weld, so that when you grind off the first weld to make the bars smooth, there would still be a very thick weld there.

Also, our machinist told us that .12" is great for welding because it is easier to weld, unlike thinner tubing. If we used thinner crossbar metal, the welds would be weaker, and the metal could of been ruined if not welded correctly.
 

Tylerr.

Super Moderator
Staff member
Rads are about 70 shipped
c4's are like 55 shipped or something
SZ's are 65 in store idk how much shipped
 
Gino Troian said:
Hey,

I don't know what that shit means but I do agree that the crossbar is very thick. I doubt the welds will break because Rayan Simian has ridden his bars for over 6 months. He has whipped some huge ass gaps and stairsets, most of which people can't even jump. Just recently he just cracked his bars, right on top of the stress cuts (or whatever you call it).

The prototype bars were welded by a beginner welder, but the new bars (V2's) were welded by a professional. The welder had an awesome idea of making a double bead weld, so that when you grind off the first weld to make the bars smooth, there would still be a very thick weld there.

Also, our machinist told us that .12" is great for welding because it is easier to weld, unlike thinner tubing. If we used thinner crossbar metal, the welds would be weaker, and the metal could of been ruined if not welded correctly.
Well your welder is right on a couple accounts. Sure it is easier to weld, because there is more material there. That's the same reason why aluminum welding is really difficult, because aluminum is much less dense which means there's a lot less material there. With thinner tubing and less dense materials, you do have to be more careful HOWEVER, that doesn't mean the welds are weaker.

Think of the saying "When there's blood on the streets, somebody's gotta go to jail." I know it sounds weird but it actually makes sense. Bars USUALLY dysfunction in one of two places: Either the crossbar bends or the welds crack. SO, you'd think you'd be solving the crossbar bending problem by using a thicker wall'd tubing, HOWEVER, because the crossbar won't bend, all the stress goes to the welds. Something has got to give, whether it's the crossbar or the welds...something's gotta go to jail. haha.

Now, no bars are indestructible. Mine will eventually bend, yours will eventually crack. However, bent bars are ridable, cracked bars aren't.
 

Steve Moore

Steel Member
Inwards are about $75 shipped and are made of steel. I know that because I ordered mine and they STILL DIDN'T COME. I'm so mad, I need them nowwww. But anyway, I'll provide a review as soon as I ride them for about a week.
 

c4scooters

Barspins
Well your welder is right on a couple accounts. Sure it is easier to weld, because there is more material there. That's the same reason why aluminum welding is really difficult, because aluminum is much less dense which means there's a lot less material there. With thinner tubing and less dense materials, you do have to be more careful HOWEVER, that doesn't mean the welds are weaker.

Think of the saying "When there's blood on the streets, somebody's gotta go to jail." I know it sounds weird but it actually makes sense. Bars USUALLY dysfunction in one of two places: Either the crossbar bends or the welds crack. SO, you'd think you'd be solving the crossbar bending problem by using a thicker wall'd tubing, HOWEVER, because the crossbar won't bend, all the stress goes to the welds. Something has got to give, whether it's the crossbar or the welds...something's gotta go to jail. haha.

Now, no bars are indestructible. Mine will eventually bend, yours will eventually crack. However, bent bars are ridable, cracked bars aren't.

Very true, and I don't want to go to jail! :(
 
Inwards...because Proto is taking too long to release forks.

When will kids realize that Inward's products are garbage. Granted, Razor is worse and that's the only reason people buy them. Proto has been taking a LONG time to release their forks so the demand for aftermarket forks is ski rocketing. That's the only reason Inward is blowing up. They have thick forktubes, and that's the only thing going for them. To anybody that's owned an SR fork, Inward's craftsmenship is god awful. The welds look like hot glue and the legs are never straight. HOWEVER, razor is so far worse, it is indescribable. So anything better than razor is obviously a step up and people will buy them, since nobody else is in the fork game right now. I give major props to Inward, because they stepped up to the plate and supplied a demand. However, there are other bar companies, so Inward's bars...I surely wouldn't get 'em.
 
inwards the ---- they are steel with a reinforcment in the top (sure most of you knew that) never heard of them bent jut got mine they were 70 or 75 with paint and got them exactly 2 weeks form wen they were ordered
 

coryM

Member
Steven T said:
Ive had my RADv1s for over 2 years. No bends at all. And i got brand new RADv2s. And im about to get my Inwards. I love my RADs. And ill post back after i ride my Inwards.

Damn you still have V1s??? back then the cross bar was .035 and i've seen a them break over time. But we started using thicker material once people started riding wider sizes. But its pretty dope you still have those!
 
Back then you guys sold only 15" right? 0.035" would hold fine for that width. It's just when you start hitting 17" and up that you need a thicker wall'd crosstube.
 
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