/PROTO Scooters

TomK

TomK

Super Moderator
Staff member
I had absolutely no problem putting the bearsings in they slide in nice
 
conordavidson

conordavidson

Member
e and lil' steve were talking on the phone and we both had the same problem. It's not a big problem, but it's something we can't solve. Basically, we tightened our wheels (this happens to me on the front and back, but steve only tried it on the front) and they wobbled a little bit, which is normal when you run wheels with bearing spacers. However, the weird thing was that the wobble wasn't consistent for the whole rotation of the wheel. So if I rotated it 90 degrees it might wobble a lot, but if I rotated it 180 degrees it might not wobble at all. It would seem like the bearings would be crooked, but that's not the case. I pressed it in with fender washers, a bolt, and nut so there really isn't room for messing up. I'm not sure how steve pushed them in, but I'm assuming they're also straight.

So what's the problems?
 
D

devinthedew

Member
can you put a starnut in my slayers i ordered ill pay extra and ill have to buy a starnut.... i forgot but ya i would apperciate it
 
the_SD_local

the_SD_local

I own SR.
guys i was listenign to andrew when he was tlakign to the wheel makers it takes a full month for a wheel to be cured to 90 percent then wearing in makes it stronger acuatlly it takes a full year period fo a wheel to reah 100 percent egal sport can shut up and send me a wheel fresh outta the mold and watch wat id do to it.... neff said

-murphy
 
conordavidson

conordavidson

Member
nvm about the wheel problem. It's the bearings. We're both using rush ceramics and the bore was barely too big. They're really fast, but i can't stand rattly wheels, so back to stocks it is.
 
Lil Steve

Lil Steve

Member
Conor Davidson said:
nvm about the wheel problem. It's the bearings. We're both using rush ceramics and the bore was barely too big. They're really fast, but i can't stand rattly wheels, so back to stocks it is.
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I got mine working. :)
 
conordavidson

conordavidson

Member
Alright guys, I'm not sure if it was just in mine and lil' steve's case, BUT, if your bearings either seem abnormally loose (pretty fast, but they wiggle around no matter how tight you make them), then I highly recommend you take the bearings out and put a new set in. AND, if you get your protos, I'd recommend putting a bad set of bearings in first, then knocking them out, then putting a good set in. It seems that the first set of bearings you put in, becomes slightly "warped" or kinda messed up because of the extremely tight fit with the strong billet aluminum. Once the hole is stretched (raunchy, I know) after the first set, the second set works perfect.
 
the_SD_local

the_SD_local

I own SR.
JonDogg said:
madis are the europeans wheels shipped out yet?
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Madis should have them by the end of next week.

Conor Davidson said:
nvm about the wheel problem. It's the bearings. We're both using rush ceramics and the bore was barely too big. They're really fast, but i can't stand rattly wheels, so back to stocks it is.
Click to expand...
For one I do not recommend using ceramic bearing in any scooter wheels. As for the wobble, even if it looks like they are in all the way straight... they probably aren't. It doesn't take much to make them wobble if the bearings are a little crooked. I put bearings in Elmers wheels when he was here and they had a little wobble so I put them in a vice and pressed them more then rotated 90 degrees then pressed a little more then rotated and pressed etc. until they were perfectly straight and they were good to go.
 
Rob.

Rob.

Admin
Staff member
You can please some people sometimes but you can't please everybody everytime...
 
M

marcel

Member
guys i was listenign to andrew when he was tlakign to the wheel makers it takes a full month for a wheel to be cured to 90 percent then wearing in makes it stronger acuatlly it takes a full year period fo a wheel to reah 100 percent egal sport can shut up and send me a wheel fresh outta the mold and watch wat id do to it.... neff said

-murphy
Click to expand...

Men YOU ARE SO WRONG !!!! You really do not know where you are talking about !!!!
Who the are you to offend me, you do not even know me, you never talked to me !!
You better get your technical knowhow up to date because your now misleading all the guys here !

We make wheels like this for over 15 years, so who are you to tell me how its working !!! Andrew do not even makes them himselve so there is a lack of technical knowhow from your side.
Normally that is no problem if you dare to tell that, but the way you are telling this shit will come back to you sometime....

We even BLEND our own base Urethane OURSELVES and Im 100% sure your factory just buy the base material !!!!

I allways tell that you can use our wheels the day that they are comming out of the curing oven, front or back, I do not care. BUT I also tell allways that a fresh wheel will have more abrasion then a old wheel. So thats the only thing you are correct in but you missunderstood the real thing.
IF Urethane get off the Alu core after one day, then it also will come off after a month.....simple !! Postcuring has NOTHING to do with dehubbing.
Postcuring makes that the "urethane" chains will stabilize and bond more together so that the abrasion will be much less. THATS ALL !!!!!!!!

AND YOU ARE MORE then welcome to come over and visit us, you even can help making wheels and after that you may put them direct in your scooter and try to see if I am right !!!! Im not affraid not a small bit !!

Btw, its EAGLE, you messed that up also.

ANDREW, I KNOW WE HAD AGREEMENTS AND I STICKED TO IT AS GOOD AS POSSIBLE, BUT NOW I DEFENT MYSELVE BECAUSE THIS IS NOT THE WAY WE SHOULT TALK TO EACH OTHER.
ALSO BE A STRONG MEN AND DARE TO KEEP THIS ON SR INSTEAT OF DELETING IT, OR BANNING ME AGAIN AS SOME TIMES BEFORE. BE HONEST AND SHOW THE GUYS, FOR WHO YOU AND I DO THE PRODUCTS FOR, ON HERE WHATS GOING ON, THEN YOU ARE THE MEN !!

Sorry if my English is not correct, its not my mother language but I do my best.
 
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