SR Threadless Forks

Madis

Madis

Super Geek
Staff member
How thick was the wall of the steerer tube?
(sorry for repeating, i lost your PM months ago and i've forgotten the answer).
 
the_SD_local

the_SD_local

I own SR.
Mountain Drew said:
what does < mean
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Less than... math class? It means 110mm is the biggest wheel you can fit on them.
zak said:
i feel stupid asking this but how oes th compression system work how would it hold in the fork at all?

try and explain with pictures
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Just like a BMX bike, only bigger.
grantstark said:
raw solid steel is gunna rust isnt it??
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I will probably clear coat the fork legs then it is your job to keep them lubed, clean and out of the rain.
babboon jonny said:
does sr use UPS ground or postal i need to know before i order
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Not sure yet, depends what is cheaper but probably USPS (postal) right now.
John Radtke said:
jeez that looks strong, how heavy is that beast?
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I don't know an exact weight but not much heavier than stock.
Pete Pachota said:
OGCÃ?Æ?Ã?â??Ã?â??Ã?¢Ã?Æ?Ã?¢Ã?¢ââ?¬Å¡Ã?¬Ã?â?¦Ã?¾Ã?Æ?ââ?¬Å¡Ã?â??Ã?¢ Derek said:
Haha 5 questions in a row... Keep the tradition going I guess...

Would it be breakable at all? like is there any pressure points in it?
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I think so, first the plate to which the pipes are welded might bend, and, as it's offset forward it might break pretty much the same way as bike forks do.

I don't understand one thing, why didn't you just make the pipes longer and have them drilled through at the bottom to fit the axle? And I don't know if 110mm wheels can fit with the compression system bolt sticking out at the bottom.
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Those probably are the 2 "weakest" points but by weakest I mean you would have to run it over with a car to see any change. That plate is 5mm thick and the forks tubes are almost directly beneath the steerer tube so there really isn't any room for this plate to bend. There is always the possibility of welds cracking if you totally abuse the thing but I'm pretty confident to say that if you crack these welds then these forks should be the last of your worries if you get my drift.

Also, if you make the fork tubes longer then the front of the scooter will be taller and the deck will lean back. I specifically measured and modeled them after stock Pro Model forks so it won't change the way the scooter feels or rides (although they will feel a little different no matter what).

As for the compression bolt, it is just sticking out in the picture so people can see how it works. As soon as you tighten it down, the head of the screw sinks up inside the steerer tube allowing enough clearance for your wheel. You COULD take the bolt out after everything is tight but I recommend just leaving it in because it is easier to make quick adjustments and you won't lose it (since it is a really expensive bolt).

EDIT: The reason I didn't just bring the tubes all the way down and drill them is because you would need a new (longer) axle. Right now, the way they are designed you can use your old stock axle.
Madis said:
How thick was the wall of the steerer tube?
(sorry for repeating, i lost your PM months ago and i've forgotten the answer).
Click to expand...
.065
 
Madis

Madis

Super Geek
Staff member
Well, Razor old-A and Pro-model forks have .065, although razor forks' threads make it like .025 thick between the thread lines and the inside wall of the fork.

edit: bmx forks have .125 tubing according to my knowledge.
 
Madis

Madis

Super Geek
Staff member
Pirate Alex said:
Those look sick, it's also looks like pegless toothpicks will be mildly possible.
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Bye-bye welds, that might mess up the L-shaped dropouts, haha.
 
P

Pete Pachota

Member
the_SD_local said:
Madis said:
Wasn't it like 0.125" when you planned to make them?
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That was when I planned to make them out of aluminum. .125 steel would be waaaayyyy too heavy and unnecessary.
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I don't think so. A stronger forktube is even more important for a scooter rider than a biker. This is because a scooter bar is way longer than a bike bar, so it acts like a lever that, depending on its length, multiplicates the force which is applied to the forktube.

Did you use a lathe to make the bottom headset race area?
 
N

Nate Grant

Steel Member
now its my turn to be a n00b.

what are the drawbacks of just getting the fork without the compression system. like i've heard it will be really wiggly or something?

EDIT: nevermind i got my answer haha.

if i go back and order a compression system, will i still get the fork "upgrade" or whatever its called?
 
Matt Dibble

Matt Dibble

M3MB3R
Staff member
Ordered the fork + compression system. Can't wait.

This thread will be FLOODED with questions once they arrive at peoples doorsteps im sure haha.
 
S

Steezeman

Administrator
Do you have to go to a bike shop to get the star nut pressed in? Because I was talking to people on bmx forums and that's what they said for bikes.
 
the_SD_local

the_SD_local

I own SR.
farmboy UK said:
YAY i will order asap

Edit: are you going to run out any time soon?
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I have enough material to make 250 pairs.

Pirate Alex said:
Do you have to go to a bike shop to get the star nut pressed in? Because I was talking to people on bmx forums and that's what they said for bikes.
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You can do that or you can try to insert it yourself if you feel comfortable doing it. I used a deep socket and a hammer to put mine in. You want to make sure you don't hit the center of the nut because that is where the threads are and you don't want to be hitting the outter edges either because those have to flex when you insert it so you have to be kind of careful. Whatever you do DO NOT screw the bolt into the star nut and star pounding on that or you will really ruin things.
 
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