/PROTO Scooters

K

kolbycrouch

Member
um i think you could use slits, if you put a 2-3 in 1 1/8 tubing in your bars, so that they will compress onto that, really this compression system opens up more oppurtunity than its meant for, people can now reinforce their entire steertube because bar id doesnt matter anymore, you can have thinner aluminium steertubes and just reinforce the bottom 4-5 inches because nobody breaks them any higher than that, you could probably use a 1 inch bmx headset if you had the right headtube and fork, because you could make a shim for the bottom of the clamp. im not sure why alot of people would want to do this(execpt the alu bars) but now its an option, now all those kids who reinforce parts they cant even break can reinforce their new slayers :)
 
Joe Riley

Joe Riley

The Gypsy
Staff member
dam, you really thought of a good idea. alu bars reinforced at the weld and crossbar, and a 5 inch chromo reinforcement at the bottom. smart. hes right, this compression system opens up a lot of new opportunities and ideas.
 
the_SD_local

the_SD_local

I own SR.
No duh. This is why I have been telling everyone "it's not just a compression system".

"reinforcing" is what you do to parts that are not made right. Now that OD and ID are irrelevant it opens new doors to really start designing parts based around their performance needs and not around whether they fit on your forks or not which up until now has been a huge limitation to part design and the progression of the sport.
 
humpurple kushiones

humpurple kushiones

Steel Member
genius.gif


thats all i have to say about buff
 
M

maxlikesscooters

Member
so wait you have to cut the slits..or not? i would probably just not cut my bars because mine feel kinda short right now. sorry if i already asked a answered question
 
S

Steezeman

Administrator
Read the last two pages, you have to cut your bars down otherwise they won't be clamped right in the compression system. Or you could put an old fork tube in there, which would work, but probably not as well as cutting 'em down like you're supposed to.
 
K

kolbycrouch

Member
yes you could do that but your bars are gonna be 2 inches higher so i would still cut them, i just stated that as an alternative or if you have old bars that are too short you could get atleast two inches higher off of them
 
Jon.

Jon.

Steel Member
andrew when people order bars and the compression system you should make it optional to not have the slit.
 
conordavidson

conordavidson

Member
kolby crouch said:
um i think you could use slits, if you put a 2-3 in 1 1/8 tubing in your bars, so that they will compress onto that, really this compression system opens up more oppurtunity than its meant for, people can now reinforce their entire steertube because bar id doesnt matter anymore, you can have thinner aluminium steertubes and just reinforce the bottom 4-5 inches because nobody breaks them any higher than that, you could probably use a 1 inch bmx headset if you had the right headtube and fork, because you could make a shim for the bottom of the clamp. im not sure why alot of people would want to do this(execpt the alu bars) but now its an option, now all those kids who reinforce parts they cant even break can reinforce their new slayers :)
Click to expand...
And then weld the aluminum steertube to a chromoly crossbar? Nice try. Maybe butted tubing will start to catch on, but honestly 1/16" wall chromoly bars last a LONG time, they're cheap and light. I don't see too much bar improvement for a long time.
 
Madis

Madis

Super Geek
Staff member
Max Muir said:
so wait you have to cut the slits..or not? i would probably just not cut my bars because mine feel kinda short right now. sorry if i already asked a answered question
Click to expand...
Let me try to clear it up for you, since some people say that you have to
cut slits into bars and some say that you have to cut off the slits:


Using the SCS clamp, there should NOT be any slits at the bottom of the bars.

If you're gonna use your old bars on the SCS, then you will have to cut your bars anyway at the bottom, therefor you will loose the slits. You have to cut the bars 2 inches anyway because the clamp will rise the bars 2 inches, so in order to maintain the same bar height, you have to cut bars shorter. Why is that so? Because the bars and forks do not even touch each other, so the bars will sit in the clamp higher.
 
A

alexiorio

Member
Conor Davidson said:
kolby crouch said:
um i think you could use slits, if you put a 2-3 in 1 1/8 tubing in your bars, so that they will compress onto that, really this compression system opens up more oppurtunity than its meant for, people can now reinforce their entire steertube because bar id doesnt matter anymore, you can have thinner aluminium steertubes and just reinforce the bottom 4-5 inches because nobody breaks them any higher than that, you could probably use a 1 inch bmx headset if you had the right headtube and fork, because you could make a shim for the bottom of the clamp. im not sure why alot of people would want to do this(execpt the alu bars) but now its an option, now all those kids who reinforce parts they cant even break can reinforce their new slayers :)
Click to expand...
And then weld the aluminum steertube to a chromoly crossbar? Nice try. Maybe butted tubing will start to catch on, but honestly 1/16" wall chromoly bars last a LONG time, they're cheap and light. I don't see too much bar improvement for a long time.
Click to expand...
That'd be awesome. Most bike parts are butted so they are stronger where they need to be, I'm sure in the future there will be butted scooter parts too.
 
humpurple kushiones

humpurple kushiones

Steel Member
dude andrew you are the most awesome human being in the planet. it takes alot for one man to completely revolutionize a sport.if scootering gets big, its all andrew. the Messiah of scooters
 
conordavidson

conordavidson

Member
umm...cnc machined aluminum cone washers to apply the correct force on the back bearings? This would also protect your back wheel from getting destroyed on ledges. Pre-tapped decks for pedal pins, although I'm sure you've already thought of that. Female hex/allen head bolts for front and back axles (like on bmx hubs). Need more ideas?
 
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