/PROTO Scooters

Madis

Super Geek
Staff member
coryM said:
Madis said:
coryM said:
Idk if the notch idea is worth it. Then the forks would only work with the clamp.... In the end it just creates compatability issues. Unless the strip on the forks that goes in the notch is removable somehow? I think its easy enough for people to set their bars straight themselves.

The clamp itself looks pretty dialed and well made. Still too many bolts for me though :)
Incorrect.
There would be a corresponding notch in the bars and fork aswell just like on the clamp, and a separate key that would fit into all these notches, making all 3 parts (bars, deck, clamp) to be in one line. Five extra dollars must be a big deal i guess.

The key would be removable, that's my point. So it's still compatible with everything.

Madis I'm starting to not like your cocky attitude. You jump at the opportunity to correct people without even thinking.
Re-read what I wrote then tell me what I was incorrect about?
But thanks for answering my question.:)
Nah, i didn't mean to be mean. Sorry. I somehow read it wrong assuming that you thought that the keyway was a built-on on the fork. And you're welcome.
 

the_SD_local

I own SR.
YAY!

Conflict resolution without a giant bitch fit. You guys make me happy! haha

But yea Cory, the key is removable so you can run any style fork or bars with the SCS and you can run keyed PROTO bars and forks with any other setup. I design all my parts to be backwards/cross compatible with everything else out there so people have options on what/how they want to ride.
 

coryM

Member
the_SD_local said:
YAY!

Conflict resolution without a giant bitch fit. You guys make me happy! haha

But yea Cory, the key is removable so you can run any style fork or bars with the SCS and you can run keyed PROTO bars and forks with any other setup. I design all my parts to be backwards/cross compatible with everything else out there so people have options on what/how they want to ride.

Yeah thats awesome how its backward compatible.
My compression wont be :(
But I still think it will look cleaner. But thats just cause it wont show at all haha.
I still miiiight be able to make mine work with any bar/fork combo but thats a big maybe.
You do some quality work Andrew.
 
OK SO DO WE HAVE TO BUY NEW BARS FOR THE BRASS KNUCKLES AND DO WE HAVE TO GET BIGGER BARS FOR IT SRRY FOR THE CAPS BUT CAN SOMEWONE PLEASE ANWSER THESE QUESTIONS
 

coryM

Member
haha just read man. NO you dont. The brass knuckles work with everything except threaded forks.
And you should cut the bottom slotted part of the bars off too.
 
he already said all you have to do is cut two inches off the bottom, eliminating the slits and he already said that the size doesnt matter as long as its 1 3/8 od or lower because their will be shims availabe
 

Joe Riley

The Gypsy
Staff member
coryM said:
haha just read man. NO you dont. The brass knuckles work with everything except threaded forks.
And you should cut the bottom slotted part of the bars off too.
its a requirement. if you dont, your bars can slide out.
 

brandon kilbury

Super Moderator
AJ Iorio said:
the_SD_local said:
27 steps ahead of you.
Mmmm.
Figured you'd say something like that.

he really is though, I don't think he ever really wants to shoot anyone's ideas or opinions down, but most of the time he gets underestimated on here when people think they figured out what he's doing. I've been completely impressed with every part he has ever put out, and he's got plenty of new ideas.
 

coryM

Member
^ If the clamp is tightened and your bars have slots then the slots will make the bars just compress since theres nothing inside them. Meaning they will not clamp tightly. Which is why you should cut the bottom slotted part off.
 

Josh N.

Josh N
i take it when you actualy tighten the four bolts on the clamp its going to be a bit harder than how it looks in the video...
 
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