Bearing SUPER THREAD!

heyhey

Member
Yes. Abec 1 bearings have one ball in them. Seems reasonable.

Why don't you read my last post in here?
sorry bro ive never heard of abec 1 and i was told it was the number of balls inside.Sorry i dont search a whole thread for R-dubya's post
 
Here's how I clean out bearings. It may not be the best method and it requires extreme care to get right as it uses parts that if you leave in bearings for too long can quickly ruin them, but it works very well if done carefully.

You need:
Screwdriver to remove seals
Plastic cup
WD-40
Water
COMPRESSED AIR CAN (important)
Bones Speed Cream or other similar oily lubricant, not grease

1. Pry off the seal.
2. Spray WD-40 in the bearing. A lot. A nice little pool of it in the cup is cool. Shake the cup. Spin the bearing around in your fingers a bit. Be sure you get it everywhere for optimal cleanliness.
3. Rinse the bearings thoroughly in water. Spin them while they're being rinsed.
4. IMMEDIATELY DRY THEM. Towel off the outside, then take your compressed air can and go to town. Blow every last drop out of them. Not one drop left. Must be perfect or they will rust, but when it's perfect, it's worth it.
5. Add 3 drops of lube and reseal the bearing. You're good for another few months!
 

FIVEO

Member
Here's how I clean out bearings. It may not be the best method and it requires extreme care to get right as it uses parts that if you leave in bearings for too long can quickly ruin them, but it works very well if done carefully.

You need:
Screwdriver to remove seals
Plastic cup
WD-40
Water
COMPRESSED AIR CAN (important)
Bones Speed Cream or other similar oily lubricant, not grease

1. Pry off the seal.
2. Spray WD-40 in the bearing. A lot. A nice little pool of it in the cup is cool. Shake the cup. Spin the bearing around in your fingers a bit. Be sure you get it everywhere for optimal cleanliness.
3. Rinse the bearings thoroughly in water. Spin them while they're being rinsed.
4. IMMEDIATELY DRY THEM. Towel off the outside, then take your compressed air can and go to town. Blow every last drop out of them. Not one drop left. Must be perfect or they will rust, but when it's perfect, it's worth it.
5. Add 3 drops of lube and reseal the bearing. You're good for another few months!

WRONG____________________________________________________


Don't use Wd40 or water......

Use acetone or mineral spirits for cleaning... then wipe off and blow out with air to dry.. If using bones cream 1 drop for bones swiss all other bearings 2 drops.....and for the $10 the bones cleaning bottle is sweet..I love mine..makes it easy as hell to clean

http://www.blackholeboards.com/bones-bearing-cleaning-unit-19019
 
WRONG____________________________________________________


Don't use Wd40 or water......

The reason it works is because you get the shit out of there VERY quickly. The whole process should be maybe 5 minutes. The problem with WD40 is when it's left on bearings. It's a good solvent but it doesn't end well if you leave it on things. So you rinse it with water and then thoroughly and immediately air dry it - every last drop - in order to get the bearing clean and good as new.

It's just what's worked for me - if you guys prefer a different method, go ahead, but my Bones Reds lasted a good year and a half this way.
 

scootmadood

Member
I'd be happy to set up a local ride test to validate my theory, as I have a stock of protos, eagles, yak, pro and cheap no name wheels, and then see how they work with cheapo bearings, basic abec 7s, abec 9's, bone swiss, super sixes, ceramics and silk 7's.... go through the ENTIRE gamut, and see how they work...

That would be pretty cool/sick/awesome if you did that, i would highly reccomend doing that and like take down some data because so many people think that bad bearings with good wheels are better than good bearings with bad wheels.
 

Scott Freibaum

Steel Member
^^ i liked mine. Bearing types really don't matter unless you start spending $40 and up. The main thing with bearings is you get them installed correctly with a spacer. As long as they are even and pushed all the way in you're fine.
 

optikid

Bronze member
i also need new spacers ( i have a1 spacers) i there a brand thats worth the extra $ or is it all the same
 

Aidan Burns

Steel Member
Now this is true, friction of the urethane is a factor, HOWEVER, what makes a bad wheel or a good wheel? Softness? A rock hard wheel might roll like mad, but where's the grip? Would you not contest that a proto gripper and a proto slider would roll differently? Of course, different urethane, BUT both a quality wheel. So while I would say it's very true... I simply contest that the urethane makes less of a difference than the bearing itself.... unless you get a wheel so soft that the entire wheel can flex when rolling.

I'd be happy to set up a local ride test to validate my theory, as I have a stock of protos, eagles, yak, pro and cheap no name wheels, and then see how they work with cheapo bearings, basic abec 7s, abec 9's, bone swiss, super sixes, ceramics and silk 7's.... go through the ENTIRE gamut, and see how they work...

I would participate in this, depending on location.
 
now from what i have found from inline skating (which i recently abandoned to try and join the scootering world) the bearings and the wheel are both pretty equal factors, the fastest setup would be rock hard wheels with super fast bearings. the slowest setup would be wheels made of teddy bears with crappy bearings inside the "my first skateboard" kits at walmart. the best would be a wheel of about 87a hardness (a nice balance for street and park) and bones super swiss six bearings that are maintained well.

side note: NEVER GET CERAMIC BEARINGS!!!!! they may be as fast as flying fuck but the break WAY to easy. if you bomb a hill your gonna shatter your balls! (and not just the ones in your bearings):eek:
 
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